Writing about food since 2004.
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Chicken Paprikash
When Woody Allen got cancelled, I defaulted to Albert Brooks. Annie Hall was (and maybe still is) my favorite movie; but when people ask, I say that my favorite movie is Defending Your Life because I can happily watch it over and over again and love it every time. And then there’s When Harry Met…
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Garam Masala Miso Chicken Thighs with Fennel
Back in 2004, when I first became interested in cooking but didn’t have the money to buy all of the cookbooks I wanted, I would take index cards to Borders (remember Borders?) and copy down recipes by hand that I could make later. I remember frantically scribbling down The Barefoot Contessa’s Herbal Iced Tea recipe…
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Mustardy Chicken Thighs with Farro, Brown Butter Squash, Kale, and Bacon
Last night I was in the weeds: it was five o’clock, we had dinner guests coming at seven, and I had eight chicken thighs, a bag of farro, two Delicata squash, kale, and some bacon. Two Google searches later — one that landed me on a Thomas Keller recipe for Farro and Black Rice with…
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Popina
On Friday, we joined Jenny Rosenstrach, who you all know and love from Dinner: A Love Story, her husband Andy, and Cup of Jo’s Jo for dinner at Popina. That’s Jenny and Jo at the table. Dinner at Popina was so good. We all shared olives and bread and strachiatella. I had the orecchiette with…
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Chicken Sauce Piquant
It’s funny the things that inspire us to cook dinner. I was recently scrolling through TikTok (as one does these days) when a video popped up of Emeril Lagasse making a roux. I’ve long been curious about the process of making a true roux; from everything that I’ve read, it’s a long process — you…
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Baked Chicken Thighs with Butter and Onions
Keep your ferments, your sous vide pork chops, your deconstructed French Onion Soup; when it comes to dishes that I’m interested in, I’d much rather eat the favorite thing that you ate in childhood — especially if it’s something that your mother made for you with love. That’s the case with Aaron Hutcherson’s baked chicken…
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Five Weeknight Dinners That’ll Make Your Week Better
Some of you may know that my husband Craig is a director. Last week he went back to work, directing four episodes of our friend Ryan O’Connell’s Emmy-nominated Netflix show Special. The protocols on set are intense, as they should be during Covid. Craig gets tested almost every morning, he wears an N95 mask all…
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One Chicken, Three Meals: Braised Chicken Over Polenta, Chicken Cabbage Salad, and Tomato Pasta with Chicken Jus
If I teach you anything, anything at all, during our time together let it be how to turn one meal into three. Case in point: this chicken dinner I made on Wednesday night, which turned into Thursday’s lunch, and then turned into Thursday night’s pasta. How did I get all of that out of one…
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Harissa Honey Chicken with Blistered String Beans
Grilling in the summer is difficult when you don’t have a grill. We had a communal one in our fourplex’s backyard, but I haven’t seen it in a while. Maybe I just don’t want to see it. I don’t really love our backyard, though I love our apartment in general; the backyard’s just not a…
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Skillet Chicken Breasts with Corn, Peppers, and Scallions
Here’s the thing: now that I’m making recipes printable, I feel a new responsibility. I used to just write little essays about how I added a pinch of this and a drop of that and I’m realizing now how useless that was: the people want printable recipes! And I get that because when I first…
