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Vegan cooking can be thankless. Just by labeling something “vegan,” you’re instantly aware of all of the things you’re not including: chicken stock, sausage, Parmesan cheese. But sometimes you encounter a recipe that’s so good, you don’t even realize that it’s vegan until after you’ve made it. That’s how it was with this easy vegan…

Cooking out of season is a little more acceptable on the west coast, where seasons are peripheral. Yes, it got a little chilly out here in L.A. in January and February; I was wearing long sleeves in March, but life didn’t change the way life changes so dramatically when it gets cold back east. So…