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Vegan cooking can be thankless. Just by labeling something “vegan,” you’re instantly aware of all of the things you’re not including: chicken stock, sausage, Parmesan cheese. But sometimes you encounter a recipe that’s so good, you don’t even realize that it’s vegan until after you’ve made it. That’s how it was with this easy vegan…

Cauliflower makes me comfortable. If I see it a grocery store, I heave a sigh of relief: “I know what I can do with this,” I say to myself. The store manager eyes me warily. Last time cauliflower made an appearance on the blog, I cooked it like a steak for a bunch of vegans.…