For years, I’ve walked past Lure Fishbar in SoHo. You can’t miss it, really: there are portholes for windows and the restaurant, which is below ground, is styled like a yacht.
I can’t say I was dying to eat there, but then word on the street was that their burger was one of the best below 14th street. That’s what William Tigertt claimed on Eater, and then Adam Kuban echoed it on A Hamburger Today: “This burger really is all that Mr. Tigertt describes.”
Now I’ll echo Adam: this is one deeply enjoyable burger.
For starters, there’s the beef. (Where’s the beef?) There’s the beef. It’s soft and juicy and cooked just perfectly; in my case, medium rare.
Then there’s the presentation: it’s served on a brioche bun (something not everyone loves), but I love it. An eggy, rich vehicle for all that meat and juice, how could that be bad? Then there’s the cheese (American), tomato, shredded lettuce, pickle, and a special sauce. The whole thing is cut in half for you and served with an onion ring on top.
It’s the kind of burger you devour with a bloody, animal instinct; you grunt as the juice drips down your fingers and face and when your mom, who ordered a lobster roll, offers to give you half of hers for half of yours, you grunt “no” in between bites, angered that this needy creature should interrupt your bliss.
So if you’re ever in SoHo and you see little portholes and you wonder what’s going on in that restaurant that looks like a yacht, stop in for a burger. It’s pricy at $16, but worth every penny.
142 Mercer St
New York, NY 10012-3806