Wednesday Wade-Through: March 3, 2004

Indeed, I have been slack in my promise to bring you the best and the brightest from the Wednesday Food Day food sections that I gleefully read through each and every week. But slack I shall be no more. Here are the articles / columns / reviews I found noteworthy from today’s food sections:

1. Amanda Hessler reviews Hearth today in The New York Times and gives it two stars. While her review did not, necessarily, motivate me to my phone in order to make a reservation for Spring Break (I leave tomorrow!), I found these two quotes particularly funny:

“A dish of hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, direct from Craft, could not be better. The mushrooms are roasted and served on a solitary white plate. Have your fork ready when they arrive; even good friends will betray you.”

“The main walls are covered with thick panels of white felt, affixed with gigantic copper staples. They look like big bandages, actually. Big cozy bandages. Just like home, if you live in an infirmary.”

2. NYT Dining Corrections: “A picture caption last Wednesday with an article about chefs who salt meats in advance of cooking, sometimes days ahead, misidentified the cook shown at Zuni Cafe in San Francisco. She was Alyssa Peddy, a line cook, not Judy Rodgers, the chef.” [I think it’s funny that they felt the need to add “sometimes days ahead” as if that were relevant to the correction.]

3. NYC Eats does its usual helpful Review Roundup. Today, featuring: Chestnut, Geisha, Bivio, Les Enfants Terrible, Asiate, Natchez, Tapajos River Steak House.

4. If you like cheese (and who doesn’t?) (oh wait, me and my entire family) (but I’m working on it!), check out Clotilde’s post at Chocolate and Zucchini on

the Salon du Fromage. (I don’t speak French, but I believe that translates as: Hairdresser of Cheese).

5. And the AJC doesn’t seem to have anything new up in its Restaurant section today, but check out John Kessler’s review of Blais from last week. He gives it 3 stars which is definitely unusually high for the normally star-stingy Kessler. (Which doesn’t mean Kessler has bad taste. In fact, I don’t mean to brag, but a certain someone–ahem–may have received a certain e-mail from a certain food critic involving a certain lunch invitation and a certain article/profile to follow. That’s all I can say at this time).

And that’s certainly all for today’s Wednesday wade-through.

1 thought on “Wednesday Wade-Through: March 3, 2004”

  1. Just my two cents, but – I don’t think Hesser’s review does justice to Hearth. I don’t know what your dining plans for NYC include, but if have the time you still might want to consider checking it out.

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