February 28, 2013 | By Adam Roberts | 9 Comments
Pull up a chair, I’m going to tell you a funny, though slightly depressing, story.
See, on Valentine’s Day, I was alone in New York. Craig would be coming a few days later and, in the meantime, I decided to spend the night seeing a play I’d always wanted to see: David Ives’ “All In The Timing” at 59E59. (A terrific production, by the way.) I figured seeing a play by myself on Valentine’s Day wouldn’t be a big deal; once the lights go down, who cares that you’re alone? The real issue was getting food before the show started. Eating out alone on Valentine’s Day, now that’s a different story.
Continue Reading »
February 22, 2012 | By Adam Roberts | 0 Comments
I’m not one of those “where must I eat when I go back to New York?” kind of people, though I did Tweet a week before our trip something along those lines. The responses were fascinating to me–apparently Acme, which I knew as a fairly mediocre sandwich and sweet potato French fry spot near NYU, has been transformed into a restaurant-of-the-moment. Also: Isa has all the food bloggers buzzing. But, I don’t know, I wasn’t in the mood to be fanatical about new restaurants. I decided that, when it came to food on this trip, we’d wing it.
Continue Reading »
February 21, 2012 | By Adam Roberts | 0 Comments
When you arrive in New York, for your first time or after being away for a while, you want a taste of what makes the city unique. Sure, you could pop into one of those hip bastions of dining where everything’s pickled or ensconced in some kind of obscure animal fat but, really, aren’t they doing that in most food cities these days? What you crave is the sort of thing that doesn’t push the envelope in any way; you want comfort food, New York City style, served gruffly yet with an inscrutable sort of love. What you crave is the 2nd Avenue Deli.
Continue Reading »
June 20, 2008 | By Adam Roberts | 15 Comments
On family trips to EPCOT, as a young lass*, I would insist that my parents visit the countries alone and let me and my brother spend our valuable time in Future World. The countries, I thought, were boring: who wants to shop around England and France, when you can ride up the giant globe with Walter Cronkite’s voice soothing you into a satisfied stupor?
[*: I only now discovered that lass means young girl or woman. I was never a young girl or woman as far as I know.]
Now that I live in New York, I’m all grown up and what I love about this city is what I hated about EPCOT: all the countries represented here, squeezed together, ready for your patronage. I may as well have been in a theme park on Tuesday when, after shooting a segment for Food Network at Serendipity on 60th Street and 3rd Avenue, I walked over to 2nd and up to 88th to grab lunch at Cafe D’Alsace. The day was bright, people paraded back and forth on the sidewalk, and the restaurant had an exaggerated quality that wouldn’t be out of place in Orlando. The food, however, would put any theme park to shame.
Continue Reading »
September 20, 2006 | By Adam Roberts | 7 Comments
I love watching old movies that feature New York. This is lame but the first one that comes to mind is Bob Fosse’s semi-watchable film version of “Sweet Charity.” In this film you can see Shirley Maclaine get pushed into the Central Park lake from the famous footbridge. I like that scene because hey, it’s fun to see Shirley Maclaine get pushed into a lake, but also because I can totally put myself in that exact location today. The people who walk across that footbridge change year after year but the footbridge is still the same: that’s what I love about New York.
Cafe Sabarsky is like the Central Park footbridge. It’s a New York institution if there ever was one: hidden in an art gallery near the Metropolitan Museum of Art, people line up, day in, day out, for Austrian pastries and what’s been dubbed the city’s best coffee drinks.
Continue Reading »
September 13, 2006 | By Adam Roberts | 63 Comments
I am writing you, on behalf of the human race, to inform you that a famous restaurant, a restaurant whose name still carries great cache, is a danger to humanity. Never have I been more outraged by a restaurant than I was on Friday night when my parents, who came to town, took me–unwillingly, I might add–to that bastion of flash and dazzle, Le Cirque on the Upper East Side.
Le Cirque is housed in a futuristic glass building owned by our mayor, Mr. Bloomberg. The building is shaped like a hug which implies that when you enter this building you will be embraced. But don’t be mistaken: unless you are old and rich or rich and famous or old and famous you will not be embraced. You will be mocked, ridiculed and ignored.
We all know the Ruth Reichl story, don’t we? How she went there two times when she wrote her famous review: once dressed as a wealthy woman and once as an old clueless biddy. Well the old biddy got treated badly, got a bad table, got smaller raspberries. Wealthy Ruth (who was recognized, I believe) got treated like a Queen. This is the allure of Le Cirque: you will be judged and how you are judged will affect how you are treated. If you are judged poorly you will dine poorly; if you are judged well you will dine well.
Ladies and gentlemen, this week and last week have been rough weeks for me in terms of being judged. I’ve been looking for an apartment and all the Realtors I meet want to evaluate me as quickly as possible: “What do you do? What’s your income? Do you have a guarantor?” Withstanding scrutiny is a tough enterprise and call me crazy but when I go out to recreate, the last thing I want to do is withstand more scrutiny. I want to relax, kick back and enjoy myself. This is a bad idea for anyone headed to Le Cirque.
I entered Le Cirque and found my parents at the bar. They were drinking their drinks and admiring how pretty the building was, how pretty the restaurant. It is pretty, in a gilded, corporate sort of way. Then I saw him, out of the corner of my eye, Sirio Maccioni, the legend–the man who weighs your worth the way a doctor might weigh you at fat camp–and I felt a chill in my bones.
“That’s him,” I told my parents.
“Who?” they asked.
“Sirio,” I said. “He’s the one who will determine our worth.”
My parents eyed him and then my mom, a sprightly creature, a woman with great energy and pluck approached him.
“Excuse me, Sirio,” she said in her charming New York accent, “I just want to say how excited we are to eat here. We’re very big fans.”
He lowered his eyes upon her and sniffed. He nodded his head and whispered something to a man in a sharp suit.
The man in the sharp suit said to us, “Right this way.”
We were led past the host stand and into the main dining room. How spectacular it was! The main dining room is a giant tent, aglow with orange and yellow, and filled with flowers and mirrors and framed pictures.
“Look at this room,” said my mom as we were led through.
And then they kept leading us through: past the suited men toasting over champagne; past the Upper East Side mink coats with poofy hair and glittery diamonds; past a slinky woman with her stout husband. We were ushered into the back, the very back, the room of shame and we were given the very worst table. There was no question: it was absolutely the worst table in the entire restaurant. There was no table worse. To give you an idea, here’s a picture:
See that room with the bright tent? That’s the main room. And then there was our room. Our backs were to a wall and so were our spirits.
“No one puts Heidi in a corner,” I said to my mom who, for as long as I’ve known her, never accepts a bad first table. But mom was defeated.
“There’s nothing I can do,” she said. “This is the only table they have for us, I guess.”
A dark cloud descended on our meal and we felt ourselves unwelcomed and unloved. Our waiter was nice enough but we’d been judged poorly and he knew it. He must have been in the lower rung of waiters, the ones the Main Room waiters give wedgies to in the waiter locker room. We were all in mourning for our status in Le Cirque Land.
So what to make of a restaurant that makes you feel bad about yourself? What might redeem it? The food, I suppose. Perhaps humiliation is the price you pay for eating divine food. But the food at Le Cirque isn’t so divine and it’s damn expensive.
They gave us an amuse bouche of Lentil soup that tasted two steps away from a Campbell’s can with cream on top:
My appetizer of baccala ravioli was fine enough,
and you can’t say that it’s not a pretty presentation, but mom–who ordered an artichoke–declared her artichoke to be uncooked.
“This isn’t cooked,” she told our waiter.
Our waiter, a bit startled, looked down at the artichoke and brought it to the kitchen. When he came back with ravioli for my mom (she didn’t want another artichoke), he said to her, pointedly, “Ma’am, just so you know, you were correct about the artichoke. It wasn’t cooked.”
The feeling was like a scene in a movie where some hapless victim is trapped in a cruel plot that the audience is aware of but that the hapless victim isn’t aware of when somebody, who’s supposed to be a part of the plot, whispers in the hapless victim’s ear, “This is all a set-up. Get out while you still can.”
But we were stuck and then our entrees arrived. I ordered Langoustines because they were the most exotic (and almost the most expensive):
They tasted fine, that’s all I can say for them. You might accuse me of allowing my Le Cirque bitterness to cloud my judgment, but I feel strongly that if I’d eaten these Langoustines in a paper bag at the sea shore surrounded by friends and loved ones I’d still feel as indifferently about them. Mom and dad enjoyed their lamb chops, which they ordered enthusiastically, but when I took a bite I thought they were bland.
The only part of the meal that dazzled us, ever so slightly, were the desserts. Le Cirque is famous for its dessert artisans–Jacques Torres worked there, I believe–and the presentations were, to say the least, dramatic. Mom had the chocolate oven:
I had the floating islands:
And dad had the most dazzling of all, a towering napoleon:
But dessert did not redeem this restaurant from the lowest rungs of my estimation. I hated this meal in a way I’ve never hated a meal before: I felt a violent emotional reaction to what this restaurant stood for. What kind of madness is this? Who would tolerate such poor treatment with such mediocre food at such high prices? I’ll tell you who: philistines.
Nabokov defines a philistine as “a full-grown person whose interests are of a material and commonplace nature, and whose mentality is formed of the stock ideas and conventional ideals of his or her group and time.” This perfectly describes the people who dine at Le Cirque: their ideas and ideals, though, are of a different time, the 80s, the decade of greed, when Le Cirque rose to power. Now Le Cirque, like the people dining there, is no longer relevant. You could feel its lack of relevancy in its quiet, its lack of buzz, the lack of people cuing up outside.
So what to make of our experience? I don’t feel that my review will somehow reach Le Cirque’s target audience. Most of you reading this would probably never even consider a meal there and I congratulate you for that. New York is filled with wondrous restaurants, restaurants with food and hospitality that rival all of the world’s major cities. Why anyone would waste their money at a place as unwelcoming and uninspired as Le Cirque is baffling. Lucky for you we wasted ours; don’t be a jerk and do the same.
Ever your humble servant,
May 10, 2006 | By Adam Roberts | 21 Comments
The graduation feasting began Saturday night when mom and dad swept me away to Daniel, a place we’d visited once before but which I longed to return to. “I long to return to Daniel,” I informed mom and dad when they were making reservations. They even offered to take me to Alain Ducasse–that palace of glitz and glamour–but I had no desire to take a gamble on a restaurant many describe as “stuffy” “cold” and “not worth it.” I wanted to go to Daniel where it’s “warm” “welcoming” and “festooned with flowers.” So Daniel it was. Here’s what transpired.
Continue Reading »