Rocio’s Mole de Los Dioses

June 18, 2013 | By | COMMENTS

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Sometimes you have to tap into your inner Mary Poppins and remind your inner George Banks that flying a kite is a perfectly respectable way to spend an hour or two, even on a busy day. So in the middle of my mad apartment hunting, I gave myself a break by driving up on the highway to Sunland to check out a restaurant I bookmarked a few months ago after Jonathan Gold wrote about it; a Mole-specialty joint called Rocio’s Mole de Los Dioses (aka: Mole of the Gods).

It’s actually not too hard to get there from where I (currently) live; a quick jaunt up on the 5 and after 20 minutes you exit on Sunland and it’s right there. The place has a hidden-away feel that’s really charming and the decor is like a small town history museum’s depiction of Mexico. Quaint, cute, inviting.

First things first: I ordered a glass of horchata which came with a pink topping, a topping that I’m pretty sure was made of dragon fruit (based on my experience at Guelaguetza).

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Very refreshing: it hit the spot.

As for ordering, I chose a chicken breast because of how Jonathan Gold emphasized that whatever protein you choose, it’s really there to sop up the mole. As for the mole, I chose the house specialty, the signature Mole de Los Dioses.

Before that came out, you get a complimentary soup. This day’s soup was a shrimp stock with a cracker that tasted like the kind of food pre-historic man might have eaten, but in a good way.

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The soup is a nice gesture (and a nice soup). But the real reason to go to Rocio’s Mole de Los Dioses is, obviously, the mole. And here it comes on a big white plate.

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I’m afraid this picture might not look like much; it almost, in a weird way, looks like airplane food with black tar poured on top. That’s unfortunate because the taste is a far cry from airplane food. That black mole has a deep, pronounced flavor; imagine setting chiles on fire and then mixing those charred bits up with chocolate and cinnamon and all other kinds of unusual ingredients and you’ll get the idea. Each bite brought something new and the chicken breast, while relatively bland, was indeed the perfect canvas to experience the mole.

The exciting thing about Rocio’s is how extensive the menu is: the Mole de Los Dioses is just the tip of the iceberg. There’s Mole Oaxaqueno, Mole Poblano, Mole Mancha-Manteles, Mole de Tequila con Limon, Mole Mixteco, Mole Verde, Mole de Cafe, Mole Velo de Novia and Mole de Nopal. These are all reasons to continue tapping into my inner Mary Poppins and to continue making trips to Rocio’s: George Banks will just have to deal.

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Categories: California, Los Angeles, Restaurant Reviews

  • june2

    They should offer a mole flight for tasting as many as possible. That would be fun and creative and would probably sell a lot of mole.

  • Melissa Good Taste

    They do!

  • Michael

    I have never come across mole as a food. We eat some pretty weird things here in Australia – kangaroo,possum, grubs, insects etc but never mole.
    What does it taste like and how is it best cooked?

    I my even put it on my company’s catering menu if it can be barbecued!!!

    http://www.allseasonscatering.com.au/menu/bbqmenus/

  • i heart salt

    OMG OMG OMG>>>>why do I live on the East Coast right now? Mole is my most favorite food!!!
    You should try chicken mole with garlic mashed potatoes…..NOT traditional but seriously delicious….

  • Li

    Mole is a type of sauce not the protein.
    Mole (Spanish pronunciation: [ˈmole]; Spanish, from Nahuatl mōlli, “sauce”) is the generic name for a number of sauces originally used in Mexican cuisine, as well as for dishes based on these sauces. Outside of Mexico, it often refers specifically to mole poblano. In contemporary Mexico, the term is used for a number of sauces, some quite dissimilar, including black, red, yellow, colorado (another name for red), green, almendrado, and pipián. The sauce is most popular in the central and southern regions of the country with those from Puebla and Oaxaca the best known, but 60% of the mole eaten in the country comes from San Pedro Atocpannear Mexico City. The popularity of the sauce, especially at major celebrations, is such that 99% of all Mexicans have tried at least one version of it

  • MaSaBeMama

    sounds road trip-worthy. Adam have you ever made mole from scratch? Despite the ease of diluting bottles / chunks making it is worth the try.

  • hr

    what is wrong with you? not mole the animal, mole the sauce.

  • Kathryn

    Rocio Camacho is famous – and fabulous. She was a chef for awhile at La Huasteca in Lynwood – an amazing place. The food was never better than when she was there. You should check it out too! I can’t wait to try her newest venture! Thanks for posting.

  • Michael

    Thanks for the explanation! Duh!!!
    You learn something new every day!

  • Michael

    I just gathered that.

    It’s not a sauce that’s widely known about in Australia – is my excuse!!!

  • Anonymous

    I ordered the waitress-recommended Mancha-Manteles which had a slightly spicy, smoky chipotle kick to it. I have to pick a different protein next time, as the pork was a little on the dry side. On that day they had a nice, refreshing agua fresca drink of pineapple mixed with cactus that was positively delicious.