The (New) 2nd Ave. Deli

October 21, 2008 | By | COMMENTS

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Oh, The 2nd Ave. Deli. Remember how much I loved it? I blogged about the original here, here, and here. It was my favorite New York Deli; more inviting than Katz’s, less touristy than Carnegie. And then it disappeared and became a Chase Manhattan Bank.

When the new one opened up on 3rd Ave. and 33rd Street I was dubious. To state the obvious: who wants to visit The 2nd Ave. Deli on 3rd Ave? Second of all, how can you transfer the magic of a New York institution to a completely different venue? That just doesn’t happen; you can’t relocate The Museum of Natural History, you can’t relocate The 2nd Ave. Deli. I stayed away.

My parents were here this weekend, though, and since I was still feeling crummy I suggested some place that had soup. Preferably chicken noodle soup.

“Which place has that?” asked my mom.

“The 2nd Ave. Deli!” I said, surprising myself. But this was the perfect opportunity to check the new place out: of all the New York traditions I’d adopted for myself since moving here in 2004, one of my most cherished was the tradition of eating chicken soup at the 2nd Ave. Deli when I had a cold. Here was a chance to revive that tradition.

On Saturday at 1 PM, mom and dad joined Craig and I at a table for four near the back:

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My dad, who’s a relatively good sport when we force him to eat froofy four-star food, couldn’t have been happier with the choice.

“Yes,” he’d said instantly when I suggested the idea over the phone.

At the deli, we all ordered the best thing to order there: soup and half a sandwich for $14.95. The soup? Matzoh ball.

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Oh 2nd Ave. Deli soup, you’ve come back to me! Next to Momofuku’s chicken ramen (which I call Asian Penicillin), this is my favorite chicken soup in New York. It’s rich, it’s flavorful, and it’s healing. There’s nothing better for a sick person than The 2nd Ave. Deli’s chicken soup. And the matzoh ball? Light as a feather. And with those big rounds of carrot, this is an iconic New York dish.

(Please note the can of Dr. Brown’s Black Cherry soda on the upper right; that’s your required drink, with Celery Soda as an acceptable alternative.)

Mom, getting into the spirit of things, ordered potato pancakes for the table:

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I must say, this was the meal’s only misfire. I found the pancakes to be flavorless, and the texture unpleasantly woolen. But who needs potato pancakes when you have soup that good and half a sandwich to look forward to?

Craig, the only non-Jew at the table, did not react kindly to my choice of chopped liver:

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It was a pretty imposing site: that giant mound of pureed chicken liver and onions. My grandmother, strangely, always warned against chopped liver (“It’s an organ meat!” she’d say; when I ask her now what’s wrong with eating organ meat, she says, “I don’t know–but I know it’s bad for you!” It’s her birthday today, by the way; happy birthday, grandma!)

I enjoyed my chopped liver, but I could hardly eat all of it. I scraped a lot off and took a few bites of what was left. Eating this kind of food so early in the day is sort of like a day death sentence; like agreeing to carry around a bag of bricks for the rest of the afternoon.

Craig had half a pastrami sandwich which is probably the smartest thing to do:

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I had a taste of Craig’s pastrami (I think mom and dad both had pastrami also) and I’ll concede it’s not as good as Katz’s. Katz’s pastrami is steamed until it’s dreamily tender and moist; this was tender but not particularly moist.

Still, I prefer the 2nd Ave. experience to the Katz’s experience; you feel more taken care of at 2nd Ave., at Katz’s, it’s a struggle.

At the end of our meal, they gave each of us a shot of chocolate soda:

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It was a nice touch and a gesture that speaks to everything I love about The 2nd Ave. Deli; more than any other New York Deli, it’s a loving, smothering Jewish mother of a deli. Sure they shuffle you in and out; they can be a bit gruff when a waiter asks you to get out of the way; but the bounty of food they put down before you–the pickles, the coleslaw, the mound of chopped liver, the giant potato pancakes, the huge rings of carrot in the chicken soup–speaks to a generosity of spirit that makes this an important New York deli, one that can survive a transplant unscathed.

I am here to report that the greatness survives; 2nd. Ave is back and I couldn’t be happier. Plan to see me there as the weather continues to chill; cold or no cold, I’ll be there.

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Categories: Manhattan, Midtown, New York, Restaurant Reviews

  • silvermike

    Seriously – Fifteen bucks for soup and half a sandwich?

  • http://pithyandcleaver.blogspot.com Maggie

    That soup looks delicious…I don’t know, I live right by the old location and it makes me sad to walk by every day. Not sure I can get over that.

  • http://foodeatenlifelived.blogspot.com Lainey

    what is it with dads and their aversion to fancy restaurants. probably because they always end up paying?

  • JB in San Diego

    So, is the deli full of sick people?

  • http://www.cookedbooks.blogspot.com Rebecca

    The trick to do with the soup and half sandwich is to take out half of the pastrami (their extra lean is the way to go), chopped liver, hard salami, what-have-you, and used the extra bread they give you to make the second half.

    I had a great meal there recently, as well. I was happily surprised.

  • http://www.mousebouche.blogspot.com A Mouse Bouche

    Weirdly, I always loved the tuna fish at the 2nd Ave Deli. I know you can make it at home and all, but it was delicious. and it bore a striking resemblance to chopped liver. mmm

  • http://www.thefriendlykitchen.com Rachel

    I’m so jealous! The odds of finding even a decent version of any of those foods here in Austin, TX is slim to none. Luckily, my Jewish mother lives only a few miles away…

  • http://www.mousebouche.blogspot.com A Mouse Bouche

    Weirdly, I always loved the tuna fish at the 2nd Ave Deli. I know you can make it at home and all, but it was delicious. and it bore a striking resemblance to chopped liver. mmm

  • http://scalloped-edge.blogspot.com Joanna

    I had a similar hesitation about trying the “new” 2nd Ave Deli, but I’m so glad I got over it and went! Their matzoh ball soup is the best I’ve ever had. (Shhh, don’t tell my mom!) And, they give you gribenes with the pickles and coleslaw, those crispy bits of chicken skin and onions… YUM.

  • http://chewonthatblog.com Hillary

    Chicken matzo ball soup is definitely order when I’m sick too, but I have to say my mom’s looks much better than that :) That matzo ball looks delightfully huge though!

  • Mer

    In Illinois we can get soup and half a sandwich for around $7 ..I would never be able to afford to eat out in New York!!

  • James M

    OMB! $15 for SOUP and HALF a SANDWICH!? Glad the economy isn’t effecting some people. How much for an ENTIRE sandwich?

  • http://www.jerseygirlcooks.blogspot.com Lisa

    Oh Yum! Is that a matzo ball on steroids?

  • http://www.jerseygirlcooks.blogspot.com Lisa

    Oh Yum! Is that a matzo ball on steroids?

  • http://www.izzyeats.com izzy’s mama

    Sticker shocked by the price? You must not be from around here! Did you note the size of the soup? Or the fact that half a sandwich is more like a whole one somewhere else? Sounds like a bargain to me!

  • mackenzie of portland

    i believe the ubiquitous “they” say that organ meats are “bad” (yes, quote unquote) because they are the filters of the body…but “they” don’t like to have fun or eat delicious foods, either, i hear.

  • Dania

    “…this is my favorite chicken soup in New York. It’s rich, it’s flavorful, and it’s healing. There’s nothing better for a sick person than The 2nd Ave. Deli’s chicken soup…”

    I use to work as a waitress at the old 2nd Ave Deli (2002-2003) and as far as I know they haven’t changed any of their recipes. The secret of their delicious soup (and half of the other menu items, including tuna salad) is MSG!!!

    Yes they put MSG, actually a lot of it, in the soup I’ve seen them doing it many times. When I use to eat the soup I would ask for the salt free version, which they don’t add MSG to, and just add salt to it. If you do so you’ll see it doesn’t taste the same (yes MSG tastes good). The great flavor comes from chemicals and not from some great grandma recipe. I don’t think I would refer to this soup as “healing”…

  • Sheila

    Oh, Dania – you just broke my heart. 2nd Ave Deli’s matzo ball soup is my favorite food ever and it really does cure everything, including a broken heart. When I lived in the Village, I’d call over for delivery and just by the sound of my voice saying hello on the phone, they knew I wanted matzo ball soup. Who knew it was in fact MSG that was making me feel better? Argh.