Recently, reader Amy from Madison, WI wrote me the following in an e-mail:
It's November, and the rest of the month revolves around just one meal: Thanksgiving.
But I have a quandry. Every year, I try to contribute something that is NOT fat laden and IS full of veggies and anything else good-for-you . .and my steamed broccoli with lemon zest or roasted asparagus gets rather sadly overlooked for the (classic, and admittedly tasty, though completely devoid of nutrients!) green bean casserole.
Can you and my fellow readers help suggest something that will be enjoyed by all and will not leave me feeling bloated and guilty at the end of the meal?
Since I, myself, plan to use half a ton of butter in the Thanksgiving dinner I'm going to cook (and I'm cooking for 16 people! more on that later) I decided to send this question to our brand new interns to see who was up to the task. Intern Kathryn (who's soon to attend the French Culinary Institute in New York) leapt at the opportunity and here's her happy, healthy Thanksgiving solution.
How Not To Be A Fatty: Thanksgiving
by Kathryn the Intern
Thanksgiving is a holiday that is about two things: food and traditions. And since most of the traditions are about food, it's pretty much just about food. Yes, ladies and gents, this is truly our annual excuse for a feast like in days of old. You know, the bulk up now so you don't die in the freezing winter ahead sort of event. My personal motto for this day of state sanctioned gluttony is "Is there any more of that?" However, not everyone is of my school of feasting. Thankfully, or I'd be forced to subsist on a measly 2 or 3 servings of everything. So, in honor of that health conscious diner, and every table has one, I have a personal tradition of trying to serve something whose nutritional value has not been enhanced by an entire stick of butter.
In selecting each year's entry to the big game, I have developed a set of ground rules to guide what can be a tricky maneuver. 1. Under NO circumstances try to replace a classic with your interloper. Case in point, once i decided that I and I alone would take over the planning and preparation of family Thanksgiving. I would shake things up, update favorites, eliminate those unnecessary sides that never got eaten. It would be a moment of culinary greatness. So when my sister asked me why I screwed up the sweet potatoes by not putting on mini-marshmallows, I was glad someone else was holding the carving knife. 2. It must be stealthy. If it at all looks like it's a healthy option, or if you out it, it will be boycotted faster than you can say "Gay Teletubby." 3. It will not be eaten with the same zeal as the usual suspects. We can't all be the cherry Lifesaver. The sooner you accept it the happier you'll be.
So, with that in mind, let me introduce you to this years player: Cauliflower Gratin. This dish looks like a cream filled, starchy delight, but only to the unsuspecting.
Cauliflower Gratin
1 head of cauliflower
2 cups milk
salt and pepper
1 egg
1 oz. Parmesan or Emmental cheese, shredded
1. Cut the cauliflower into florets.
2. Bring the 2 cups of milk to a simmer and cook the cauliflower until tender.
3. Drain the cauliflower, reserving 1/3 cup milk.
4. Arrange the florets in a lightly buttered casserole dish, mix the egg and milk together, and pour over the cauliflower.
5. Cover and bake at 350 for about 15 minutes, until the egg mixture looks jiggly.
6. Uncover, sprinkle the cheese over it, and put it under the broiler until the cheese is melted and crusty. A perfect disguise.
Comments (17)
Nice start Kathryn the Intern!
As a kid I hated cauliflower and the meal that helped me to discover cauliflower's beauty was this one.
I would suggest it too all who are, like I just to be "cauliflower haters"!
Posted by FreshAdriaticFish | November 13, 2007 5:33 AM
Here's a great side dish that I make this time of year -- even for the non-Thanksgiving table. For those of us who love turnips/rutebaga, it's a feast:
Rutebaga Souffle
1 medium rutebaga, peeled and cut into large chunks
1 cup egg substitute (or 4 whole eggs)
1/2 cup milk (I use 1 1/2 percent)
1/2 to 3/4 cup grated asiago
salt and pepper to taste
Boil the rutebaga chunks until tender (about 20-25 minutes). Drain, and put back in the pot with the milk and egg substitute. Blend it up with one of those hand-held immersion blenders (if you have one), or blend it in multiple batches in your blender. When smooth, add the cheese, salt and pepper.
Pour into a souffle dish or 9-inch square baking pan. I usually spray it with oil, or you can butter it if you're going all Julia on us.
Bake in a 375 oven for about 45 minutes. Serve hot -- but it's also fabulous room temp. Enjoy!
I think this dish would also make a great main meal baked with chunks of ham, and plan to try that soon.
Posted by alison | November 13, 2007 7:41 AM
Cauliflower is so delicious. I just started pickling it last night with okra, onions, bell peppers, cabbage, and jalapenos. And the other awesome thing to do with it is to rub the outside of a whole intact head of cauliflower down with butter, wrap it in tinfoil, and roast it in the oven or on a hot grill for a long time (say an hour) until it offers no resistance to a fork.
But as for just wanting a healthy vegetable dish for Thanksgiving... there are so many amazing veggies in season! The hardest part of answering that question is choosing from all the options!
Heidi's Golden Crusted Brussels Sprouts recipe was the one that got me to enjoy brussels sprouts in the first place, years ago (before I ever met Heidi) and made with smoked gruyere (hard to find, but worth the work!) I made it for my family for Christmas one year and they were all really skeptical (eww, brussels sprouts) but all capitulated. It's that good.
Then you've got all the seasonal greens. Braise or boil some collards, mustard greens, or whatever and serve them with lightly browned chopped onion and spiked with a little good vinegar. I guess maybe that still looks too "healthy" to be enticing to some, though. Puree the greens with a little butter and throw in chunks of golden-fried potato, reminiscent of saag aloo; that might be more approachable, texture-wise. Or do all that and then put them in a casserole and top with bread crumbs and toss it under the broiler on low until it's all nice and warm throughout and crispy on top.
Bell peppers are in season, well, at least here in Texas, too; you could stuff them with something healthy like a mix of brown rice, roasted chestnuts, and a little cheese or creme fraiche or something and then roast them at moderate heat so they don't scorch ala roasted red peppers, but are all softened and warmed through.
There are a billion options! I agree, about the seeming-starchiness, though, that the best way to make it palatable is to identify those flavors and textures that people really like (soft, starchy, gluey, warm, sweet, rich, fatty) and try to incorporate some of that into whatever vegetable you make (a tiny bit of butter turns braised greens from entirely grassy, peppery, and sharp into a much richer, warmer dish. Mmm, butter.
Posted by Brian | November 13, 2007 11:22 AM
I never understood why everyone fills themselves up with so much starchy heavy food during the thanksgiving meal. Especially when you've got dessert yet to come (and thats the best part in my book).
The Cauliflower Gratin looks like a great recipe for almost anytime, I might just have to go to the store and make me up some.
Cheyanne
Posted by Cheyanne | November 13, 2007 1:19 PM
Because starchy heavy food is delicious! And then you wait an hour, and go have dessert. And then you feel sick the rest of the day, and swear you'll not do this again, but of course you will.
It's traditional.
Posted by Stacy | November 13, 2007 1:39 PM
AMEN STACY AMEN!!! Way to go Kathryn on the premier post! But you know what... I never wantd to be the cherry Lifesaver. Nope.
Posted by EB | November 13, 2007 3:21 PM
Thanksgiving is my number 1 U.S. holiday! Cook till you faint, eat till you pass out and then ... Well, I guess that's it for the day. I happily fool myself with some of this cauliflower, though -- if it makes me feel better.
Posted by Christina | November 13, 2007 6:11 PM
I love cauliflower! When I'm looking for a lower-fat, high-flavor dish I usually top it with oil, curry powder, turmeric & red chili flakes. Its a very popular dish!
Posted by christianne | November 13, 2007 6:32 PM
I love cauliflower! When I'm looking for a lower-fat, high-flavor dish I usually top it with oil, curry powder, turmeric & red chili flakes. Its a very popular dish!
Posted by christianne | November 13, 2007 6:32 PM
I love this dish! My mom makes it all the time, not only for Thanksgiving.
And "Kathryn the Intern" (is that your official title, heh?), as jealous as I am of your new job, I'll have to take solace in the fact that we spell our names exactly the same way, haha. Great first post!
Posted by Kathryn | November 13, 2007 7:10 PM
as a sworn hater of all things healthy i must admit that even i find this dish oddly appealing - it must be the cheese!
brilliant post kathryn. if you bring some of that sass along, you can come and cook in my kitchen any time.
Posted by Emily | November 13, 2007 7:18 PM
I love this dish! My mom makes it all the time, not only for Thanksgiving.
And "Kathryn the Intern" (is that your official title, heh?), as jealous as I am of your new job, I'll have to take solace in the fact that we spell our names exactly the same way, haha. Great first post!
Posted by Kathryn | November 13, 2007 7:19 PM
congrats kathryn on your new job! :)
i´m going to try out the cauliflower today evening.
Posted by ksklein | November 14, 2007 7:49 AM
YAY! Thank you everyone for your great ideas!
And, Kathryn, at the risk of making all the other new interns jealous, I must tell you that this witty post has made you my favorite. The other newbies are going to have to work hard to take your throne!
Posted by Amy from Madison | November 15, 2007 9:42 AM
delicious. and the kids loved it too.
Posted by ksklein | November 15, 2007 1:02 PM
This looks brilliant! Thanks Kathryn.
Like Adam, I don't usually stretch myself to make low-calorie things for Thanksgiving (bring on the butter and cream, kids). This is a very good alternative for my vegetarian friends - yes I have some of those.
Posted by Phil | November 16, 2007 9:53 AM
O.k., so I'll probably get killed for asking this (*gask* not using FRESH!), but how much would one use of the frozen variety of cauliflower, if one didn't have time to shop and one happened to have some frozen cauliflower in her freezer and was very much wanting to try this recipe?
You know, just in case...
Posted by Agategoddess | November 16, 2007 11:49 AM