A ‘Shroom of One’s Own: Dinner with Mom at Chanterelle

August 12, 2005 | By | COMMENTS

Just when you thought you’d seen the last of my family in Rome–at least for a while–here they are again, back in New York, to celebrate my mom’s big 5-0 (never tell a woman’s age!) by which I mean she’s turning 30. Because dad had to work and Michael had some other goings-on through Thursday night, mom came by herself a day early–Wednesday morning–and she and I ate three big, exciting meals together. Usually I do these as big, massive posts but after doing that list of my first year restaurants I realized it’s nicer to have individual posts for individual places. At least for now, we’ll see how I feel by the end of the weekend.

Originally, our reservation was at Town for Wednesday night. I’d never been there and I knew mom liked it. But then she said, “Are you sure you want to go to Town? We can go anywhere you want, honestly Adam, think of something you really wanted to try but that dad wouldn’t like….”

Isn’t my mom cool? So I racked my brain and suddenly it dawned on me that I’d never been to Chanterelle. I’d read all about it—it’s always listed as a great dining destination—and yet I’d never seen it our seen pictures of it. I told my mom to ask the conceirge at her hotel about it and they responded, “It’s wonderful….a beautiful restaurant, you’re going to love it.” In Zagat’s the review is equally gushy. Mom gave a big thumb’s up and so we switched our reservation.

Chanterelle is in TriBeCa and we could only get in at 9:30, so I had the idea of arriving early (at 8:30) so we could walk around. Our cab dropped us off right there at the corner of Hudson and Harrison:

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“Let’s just see if they can take us early,” suggested mom and in we went. A cute woman with glasses sat at a desky looking desk at the front. She looked suspiciously important and later we learned she was the co-owner, Karen Waltuck. (The other owner is her husband, David.) You can read the history of their restaurant here. [Wow, I just read that and it opened in 1979 and moved to TriBeCa in 1989. That's a long time to run a successful restaurant!]

Our table was a pretty one in the corner. Actually, mom had this to say about the tables at Chanterelle: “I have to say this,” she said, “there’s not one bad table here.”

The room is a big, spacious rectangle that looks like you could be eating in a wing of the White House or a corridor of a museum. There are large chandeliers and pale walls and two rather green floral displays (skimpy on the flowers)–one at the far end, near the door, and one in the middle. On two of the sides are windows covered with sheer white curtains. Mom didn’t love the decor or the room itself but this encouraged us to focus on the food.

Focusing on the food got off to a rockin’ start with this amuse of a parmesan crisp and chilled cucumber soup:

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The soup was heavy on dill and other flavors and I loved it. So did mom. “Mmmm,” she said in agreement.

Then we were presented with this hand-written menu, written–I believe–by Karen:

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“I’m going to need help with this menu,” said mom. “I can’t read it.”

I helped her with a slight twist of manipulation. “Well,” I said, “We can order from the left side which is $95 for three courses or we can just get the tasting menu–and really, that would be easier–on the right side for $115.”

“Let’s do the tasting menu,” she said, “because I can’t read this and I don’t know what to order.”

Woohoo! A tasting menu! I am so devious!

[Oh, and by the way, about that menu---the Waltucks have a local artist design the cover every couple of weeks, which I think is pretty cool. This was the menu cover:

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Kind of nifty, no?]

Our meal began with Beef Carpaccio with Mushrooms & Summer Truffles:

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This was light and refreshing (even though it was beef) with the arugala pairing well with the beef and the truffles heightening the intensity of the ‘shrooms. I still don’t feel like I’ve experienced a real truffly truffle yet because even though I’ve eaten some meals now where truffles are shaved on top of things, those shavings rarely taste as pungent and miraculous as truffles are supposed to be. Anyone want to send me a white truffle so I can compare and contrast?

Next up was “Tomato-Lemongrass Consommé with Steamed Zucchini Blossoms filled with Lobster and Shrimp” except they were out of zucchini blossoms so they were replaced with won-ton dumplings:

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This was really nice, with the dumplings truly stuffed with lobster meat–no skimping here–and the soup smacking of cool, citrusy lemongrass. We both liked this.

Then there was “Grilled New Zealand Pink Snapper with a Purée of Shell Beans; Vidalia Onions and Basil”:

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The presentation here looks blander than everything tasted. The fish was perfectly grilled—just like those grilled fish we ate in Europe, especially Croatia. The onions gave it all a sweetness and the bean puree was like a healthier version of mashed potatoes. It was an interesting dish.

After that, lamb came on stage and did its litttle dance. That’s “Loin of Lamb with Rosemary & Polenta ‘Fries’”:

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And yet, like the aging diva who does a cop movie with precocious child actor (“never work with kids or dogs!” we’re taught) this lamb was upstaged by the more boisterous polenta fries. These were the highlight of the meal for me—-they were crispy and oily with undertones of rosemary and yet they were made of polenta. I really want to learn how to make this. Anyone have the recipe?

After that, it was the cheese course. A knowledgable waitress pushed over this cart and proceeded to describe all the cheeses on it:

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We found ourselves overwhelmed and mom asked her to choose some cheeses for us, and this she gladly did: (the service at Chanterelle, by the way, was pretty great)

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So if you study that plate, you can pretty much guess what things taste like–the cheeses on the bottom were subtle and “hard” and much like other cheeses you’re used to. But then there’s that gloopy stuff at the top, do you see it? I put a big heaping spoon of that in my mouth and oh my lord….

a new paragraph must start. Lauren, my old roommate, was a big fan of stinky cheese and this was the friggin’ stinkiest, strongest, most pungent thing I’ve ever put in my mouth… Not to be gross, but if this cheese had been extracted from between the toes of a sleeping football player or some kind of giant and then mixed with spoiled milk and left in the hot sun for a week I’d believe it. It made my stomach turn. And yet, I must say, I wasn’t completely 100% repulsed—there’s intrigue there. Maybe you have to build up a tolerance for this kind of stuff.

As for dessert, I had this plum sampler:

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which was pretty great, but I was too full to appreciate it. Mom had chocolate creme brulee which she liked too. They brought us these little tasties to cap things off:

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and these were also delicious.

Look, I’m not going to lie, we weren’t in love with our meal at Chanterelle but we really enjoyed ourselves. If you’re someone on a budget who’s saved up lots of money to eat at a nice restaurant, there are about five or six places I’d send you to spend that money before I’d send you to Chanterelle. Jean-Georges and Daniel and, as you’ll see with the next post, Le Bernadain are far superior restaurants and they’re in the same price range. However, if you’re a jaded fine-diner living in New York and you want a new experience, definitely check out Chanterelle. It’s quite an experience and I like the spirit of the place, the enthusiasm of the wait staff (who, apparently, get fed quite well because the Chanterelle cookbook is called “Staff Meals” so clearly they care what the waitstaff eats) and the dedication of the owner who writes the menu and leads you to your table. That’s all really sweet, and though Chanterelle isn’t my first choice to ask to the prom, if I saw it sitting in the corner I would dance with it.

Categories: Manhattan, New York, Restaurant Reviews, Tribeca

  • S. Plant

    Once upon a time I made a beautiful rustic, grilled pizza. The recipe called for blue cheese as the topping of choice, not an uncommon ingredient, nevertheless, it was my first time working with it. I guess I added to much because it overwhelmed me in the worst way. I noticed the cheese plate includes blue cheese. I would also associate its’ taste to that of feet and all unpleasant and pungent things, still I wouldn’t be afriad to try it again, why is that?

  • lynne

    For an aromatic white truffle experience, take yourself to Picholine (on W. 64th or thereabouts) in the late fall, and order risotto with white truffles. Breathe deeply as the waitperson shaves a mountain of white truffles on top of the excellent risotto. N.B.: Picholine also has a fabulous cheese cart.

  • http://quietthoughtsfromaworldgonemad.blogspot.com/ Rainey

    I recently made polenta fries. I thought they were terrific enough to put the recipe on my blog. Here’s a link. http://quietthoughtsfromaworldgonemad.blogspot.com/ ” rel=”nofollow”>Making Myself a Garden The recipe’s in the most recent entry called “From the Sublime to the Ridiculous”.

  • Rebecca

    I was not terribly wowed by my experience at Chanterelle either. I opted out of the tasting menu and got (if I remember correctly) mushroom risotto that did not taste mushroom-y enough. My grandmother also had a lot of trouble reading the menu, but instead of getting the tasting menu, she had me read each item to her which she would then repeat after me. Ordering took a long, long time.

  • http://yoganerd.com Sara

    Polenta sticks rock. At Vespaio, pretty much THE place to go for Italian food in Austin, they had a friend mushroom polenta appetizer that was seriously one of the best things I have ever eaten in my life.

  • http://www.sevenspoons.net tara

    Here are Gourmet’s version of polenta fries. Williams Sonoma has a recipe as well, but I’ve made them in the past with success without a recipe (usually with leftover polenta).

  • http://www.williamsburger.com Chris

    Chanterelle has taken part in NYC Restaurant Week for lunches twice a year for at least the last few years; being able to eat there for $20 per person is really nice. They also extend the normal 2 weeks to about a month and a half there, so it’s been really easy to get in by my experience.

  • Gretchen

    Chantarelle is, I think, better for lunch; the room is light and spacious and airy and when I was there, the flowers were spectacular. The owner’s wife, I think, does the flowers, and I would imagine that they vary depending on her taste and the seasons. Plus it’s cheaper for lunch.

    But the best lunch in town is, for my book, the prix fixe at Bouley. Absolutely spectacular.

  • http://www.bigapplediningguide.com Michael Mahle

    I’m interested in what type of cheese that was…it looks like it could be a lumpy epoisses…but inquiring minds would like to know the truth.

    Any recollection? Thanks!

    MM

  • http://www.stine.dk Kirstine

    The pungent, gooey stuff sounds like Potkäse – grated or mashed leftover, ancient cheeses, mixed with cream and a little bit of booze.

    It is said to be of Swiss origin, but I’m not sure. Both Danes, Finns and Swedes eat it. I myself am Danish, but would not touch this goo if my life depended on it :-)

    I could not find one single recipe in English out there – I would love to translate a few for you if you’re still intrigued.