Food Network Maraton: 3:30-4, Molto Mario


Thank God. Just when I thought I’d hit bottom comes “Molto Mario.” This is, in my opinion, the best show on the Food Network. It may not seem that way at first. The first few times I watched this show I wasn’t particularly charmed by it; in fact, I found Mario to be a bit abrasive. To be honest, what really made me give it a second chance was the New Yorker profile of Mario that came out a few years ago. Before then, I didn’t realize what an accomplished chef he is; now I realize that he’s responsible for some of New York’s greatest restaurants.

And of course among those restaurants is my favorite restaurant in the world, Babbo. So watching Mario cook on TV is like watching the secrets of your favorite movie revealed.

He starts every show with a history lesson. You learn about the region he’s cooking from and the significance of the dishes he’s going to cook. Today’s region is Latzio (sp?) and he explains that distance from the equator informs the style of cooking since Northern regions have different climates and therefore different ingredients from more Southern regions. He goes way more in depth and it’s difficult to keep up. This is Food TV’s version of a master class in cooking.

I tried to capture verbatim his explanation of pancetta: “They take the pork belly, they take it off the bone, they season it with salt, rosemary…each butcher has their own style…they allow it to sit there for 6 to 12 days, and they’ll roll it up or they’ll leave it without rolling it up.”

Of course even that, I couldn’t quite get it all down. Mario offers up such an abundance of information that your mind can barely keep up with your eyes as you take in all the beautiful things he’s cooking.

He’s such a wonderful mentor. He’s telling us now to find our own butcher and fishmonger; “they’re holding the coolest stuff for their regular customers. I beseach you to find a real butcher, not to go to the mainstream grocery stores where the meat’s wrapped in toilet paper beneath a piece of plastic.” Ha! Actually, when I get to New York I plan to do just that. Anyone know any good butchers in Chelsea?

Now he’s talking about buying fresh, local food. “Anyone who’s had a strawberry that was picked that day and kept at the temperature it was picked at and not refrigerated—it’s like having sex.” I like sex! I plan to eat many strawberries when I get to New York.

Now enunciation— brus-sketta, not bru-shetta. “Bru-shetta is somebody who didn’t understand the letter C.”

Of all the shows I’ve watched so far today his is the one that makes me most want to cook right now. Everything looks so delicious. And do-able! I mean when Tyler Florence cooked this big block of beef before it looked yummy but I’m still terrified of all it involved. Here, Mario’s slicing and dicing, sauteeing and stirring and it all looks so easy. Too bad all my kitchen equipemnts on a table ready for the movers.

“When you’re cooking food you want to look at three things: the flavor, the texture, and how it looks.” Got it! God, there’s so much good advice you might as well watch the show yourself.

Meanwhile, his guests are usually a kooky mix. Sometimes there’s celebrities–Jake and Maggie Gyllenhall, Mario Cantone–other times, food workers. Today there’s a batty woman with vintage glasses and red hair and a scarf around her neck. She keeps interrupting with loud questions and I think she’s getting on Mario’s nerves.

Anyway, if there’s one show I’d advise you to watch on the Food Network, this is it. You’ll learn molto.

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