I Like Frank Bruni

Frank Bruni, the new New York Times restaurant critic, is doing a wonderful job so far in his new role. He immediately won my favor when he reviewed, for his first review two weeks ago, my favorite restaurant in the world Babbo. I shared his sentiment when he wrote: “Among the restaurants that make my stomach do a special jig, Babbo ranks near the top.” The line he draws between three star and four star dining–differentiated by service and ambience (the music at Babbo rocks a little too hardcore for Mr. Bruni) seems fair enough. I, of course, sit gladly on the three-star side of that line, but his explanation helps me understand what places like Per Se and Charlie Trotter’s are going for in their approach.

Today’s review of

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